Cap with flaps A woollen cap in coif-style with intergal earflaps from the 16th century. It was knitted in the round in stocking stitch on 4 or 5 needles, then fulled (washed, beaten and felted) and napped (raising and trimming the pile) to produce a stiff, hardwearing fabric. Knitted caps were worn by men in London's business and working communities in Tudor times. They were designed to be warm and waterproof.
date uncertain, possibly first half of the 11th c., Egypt, Fatimid period. 6 stitches and 12 rows per cm. The repeated word in Kufic says "al-Nasr", "Victory". Note 3-strand color knitting at top of piece - dark indigo, medium indigo, and madder red-orange. Documented in "Tissus d'Égypte. Témoins du monde arabe, VIIIe-XVe siècles : collection Bouvier", #160.
This cap was found during restoration work under the wooden floor of the choir screen, in a hollow of a cross vault, in the church of St. Leonhard, Basle. It had probably belonged to a stonemason. They were loosely knitted from woollen yarn, overlarge, and then shrunk and felted to their desired shape by washing in lye and mechanical milling.