Quatrefoil Point Cut Ring, c. 1550 A.D., diamond, enamel, gold, This ring introduces the table cut diamond, obtained by slicing across the top of the point cut, and the first step in the long process of mastering the techniques of diamond cutting. Since table cuts were still rare point cuts have been used for the bezel. The prestige of a diamond ring stood so high that it was not only used by the rich at weddings, but kings and queens adopted it as an emblem.
The oval gold locket enameled with black and white pea-pod ornament at the sides is mounted on the lid with a sapphire cameo portrait of Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603) and with an onyx cameo bust of Cleopatra with the asp on the back. Inside there is an enameled miniature of Charles I (1600-1648) facing front with a melancholy expression, wearing sash of the Order head standing out against a celestial blue ground. Locket: early 17th century, Cameo: second half of the 16th century.